WE DON’T push and drive our farm but take a more holistic approach and it works for us.  

So says Fingal Ferguson, of the renowned Schull-based Gubbeen Farmhouse Cheese whose parents, Tom and Giana, were among West Cork’s trail blazing artisan food producers. 

The origins of Gubbeen cheese is well told  – but it’s colourful enough to tell again. 

Giana grew up in England, was educated in France and spent a lot of her childhood in Spain, says Fingal.

‘She came to West Cork, where her uncle lived, for a few weeks one summer in the early 70s and met Tom while working in Gabe’s bar in Ballydehob.  Apparently, Tom taught Giana how to pull a proper pint,’ laughs Fingal, and the rest is history.  ‘It was a case of a hippy meeting an old-school farmer – mum was the dreamer and dad was the doer,’ recalls Fingal.

The couple became friends with Veronica Steele, maker of Milleens, and Jeffa Gill at Durrus Cheees and they were the OG artisan farmhouse cheesemakers. 

‘Mum would have started making cheese in the kitchen when I was in nappies. It’s what we grew up with – going from making small batches to producing two tonnes a week,’ he said. 

The Ferguson’s also run a traditional dairy farm comprising a Friesian herd of 140 and 250 acres. Fingal is the fifth generation farmer and shares that his  grandfather is said to be the first person in West Cork to have a tractor,

Fingal Ferguson in the salami section of the Gubbeen Cheese factory. Photo: Andy Gibson

‘All our own milk is used for our cheese, We’re unique in that we are 99% self-sufficient when it comes to our cheese, with what we don’t need going to Drinagh Co-op,’ he said. 

The ethos is on keeping things simple, and while the Ferguson’s farm isn’t organic, it is chemical free. 

It’s a circular economy – one they don’t try to squeeze, for example the milk is used for their cheese; while the herbs grown on the farm are the key to the charcuteries produced at their on-farm smokehouse.

All the family is involved including Fingal’s sisters Rosie and Clovisse and his own children.  

‘Once you can stand, you’re given a job but no one is made do anything they don’t want to do,’ said Fingal.

He points out that they’ve never had a business plan. 

The Gubbeen Cheese factory with solar panels in the foreground and Mount Gabriel as a backdrop. Photo: Andy Gibson

‘That isn’t what we’re about. People drive us, quality drives us. It’s a natural, slow movement, it’s a passion project. It’s never been about growth for us. Yes of course we want to be successful and we could expand and make more products but more isn’t always more. If we make more cheese, we need more energy, more staff and that’s not what we’re about. It’s working with the natural elements that make Gubbeen work so well,’ he said. 

They employ around 20 people between the farm, the cheese making and the smokehouse. 

Fingal Ferguson in the Gubbeen Cheese factory. Photo: Andy Gibson

‘They are essential as pretty much everything we do is manual. We make a difficult product. Cheese is easy to make, but it’s hard to make consistently and we’re lucky to be part of an incredible community of artisan cheese makers in Ireland, and to be part of a hugely supportive community and we are very lucky to have a great relationship with all those we supply. Our staff are also wonderful and have been with us for a long time. Without those people caring about what they do we’d be doomed – simply put we wouldn’t have a product.’

Fingal is very aware of his legacy, and leaving the farm in a better place for the next generation and is currently installing solar panels to offset spiralling energy costs. 

‘Money saved from his knife making  over the past five years has helped to fund the project, along with some grant assistance. 

‘The idea is that on a sunny day we’d be off grid and we could cut one third of electricity costs a year which we’d invest  back into the company. Keeping our running costs down gives us the ability to protect what we do.’ 

Fingal’s honesty is refreshing: as a farmer and food producer he said some days he’s ‘beaming with pride, and others is full of dread.’

The Gubbeen Cheese factory floor. Photo: Andy Gibson

‘There’s never a dull moment here but I love it,’ he said. 

 Is he confident in the future of dairy farming in West Cork with more regulations being put in place all the time? 

‘We know why all the rules are in there, as a protective measure. At times it can be heart breaking but the world is changing and we have to go with it. Our core principals of farming, and our connection to our community don’t change. We could have sold our milk directly to the co-op but our lives would not have been the same.  We’d describe ourselves are more laid back type of farmers. I think it’s important we have different types of farmers and we’re lucky that Ireland supports that, and that people are tolerant of our views.’ 

It all comes back to what’s important to the Fergusons: quality, quality of life and quality of what they produce. That’s how they measure success. 

Fingal said they’re delighted to win the monthly Southern Star farming award and that being recognised locally means a lot. 

‘We’re very aware that we aren’t put on some kind of pedestal, or to be thought of as more than what we are, which is a West Cork dairy farm.’

May monthly award is sponsored by AIB

Shane McCarthy AIB Agri advisor talks about the importance of agriculture to AIB and the outlook for the sector

AIB is delighted to sponsor the West Cork Farming Awards which celebrate the best of farming in West Cork and highlight this vital sector for AIB.  Agriculture is a cornerstone of our business, particularly in new SME lending through our branches around the country. In Cork alone, agriculture accounts for around 40% of our SME lending, with some rural branches seeing even higher figures.

The Irish dairy sector experienced a strong year in 2025. Milk production recovered significantly, with national output increasing to approximately 8.8 billion litres, driven by improved grass growing conditions despite a decline in cow numbers. Milk prices were strong in the first half of the year, supported by solid global demand, with an overall annual average of approximately 53 c/litre. However, market conditions weakened in the second half as global supply increased sharply, particularly across the EU, US and New Zealand, leading to significant downward pressure on dairy commodity prices. By year-end, base milk prices had fallen to around 35 c/litre. 

Beef prices reached record highs in early 2025, driven by strong global demand. Lamb and pig prices have also remained firm. With input costs stabilising and output prices trending upwards, farm incomes increased across all sectors in 2025.

Farm profitability in 2026 will be highly dependent on cost control and system efficiency. With production costs typically in the range of 35–42 c/litre on dairy farms, many farms may operate close to breakeven for periods of the year. Strong beef prices are expected to provide some support to overall income; however, margins are likely to decline compared to 2025. Most farms are entering the year with relatively strong cash positions following a positive 2025, but cashflow management will be critical. Early planning and engagement will be essential where pressures arise, particularly in relation to working capital requirements and financial commitments.

From a finance point of view farm investment activity and land purchase proposals remain in demand.  Agriculture remains a critical part of our business and will continue to be in the future.  I would also encourage any farmer who is experiencing cashflow difficulty to get in contact with us as early as possible to put a plan in place to support your business throughout this year and in the future.  

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.